There should be some documentation with the BOB. The problem is I do not know how your particular set up is wired, what BOB.s you have etc, so you will have to experinment a little to get the leads right. The other axis work on the same principle (the 0v lead has a clip on it, so if I am unsure the drill is properly earthed, I can clip the earth lead on) You can then set the height of the drill (remembering the 1.55mm thichness of the copper clad), so I set my Z axis at 1.55, which is the equivelant of 0 if the tool had been touching the workpiece. If you then type, on the MDI line " G31 Z (and a minus number slighly below your copper clad height) the drill will move down, and the stop as soon as it touches the copper clad. In practise if I need to set a drill height, I plug in the lead, lay the copper clad beneath the drill, and jog the drill down to it, leaving it a little short. The wire going to the pin is soldered to a square of copper clad, nicely polished (thickness 1.55mm). In practice the 0v lead is not required becasue the mill/lathe is earthed anyway. I have a small jack plug which I can plug into my control box. This means that a 0v signal on the pin will activate it. The way I use mine is as follows - bear in mind that the inputs to my computer are direct to LPT1. To do this you need a lead from pin, and a +5 or 0v lead to your detector. A signal on this pin (whichever you allocate) will stop the axis moving. The input into Mach 3 that you use is the "probe". No doubt a few others have ready made programs for this. I'll start you off with the few of the basics, so you undertsand where you are coming from.
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